How many times have you cast aside a craving for sushi just to appease a raw-fish-repulsed dining companion? Or perhaps you've protested gingerly when everyone else is eager for maguro and hamachi? Gourmet retailer Dean & DeLuca has developed a new line of takeout sushi from its SouthPark-area store with hopes of ultimately bringing even squeamish customers to sushi coolers in its 18 stores and cafes nationally. Sushi American Style is made without raw fish, which also addresses concerns about parasites and excessive fishing of some species. Three of the retailer's five new sushi rolls also have no seaweed wrappers. They're rolled in bright red, orange or yellow wrappers made from tomato, carrot or corn. All of the rolls are based on popular flavor combinations or American sandwiches. There's a BLT Roll, a lobster roll, a cowboy roll with skirt steak and blue cheese, a chicken roll with roasted free-range chicken, and a vegetarian Green Goddess Roll.
Charlotte Executive Chef Andres Moncayo expects the new line to soon generate 5 to 7 percent of sales at the Phillips Place store, compared with 2 percent for traditional sushi produced by an outside vendor. "We have no competition," Moncayo said of putting popular American flavors in colorful sushi wrappers. "It's so unique." The Wichita, Kan.-based chain's recipes were created by Tracy Griffith, a California Sushi Academy grad. Customers often asked her for sushi without raw fish when she worked for a Beverly Hills restaurant. Griffith, the younger half-sister of actress Melanie Griffith, began developing an odd array of sushi recipes. She published them in "Sushi American Style." The book includes sushi rolls made with fried catfish, grilled pork chops, and green eggs and ham. There's also an Elvis Roll, made with peanut butter, bacon and banana. Of course, it's dipped in batter and fried, as the King would have wanted. Yes, this is still sushi, as long as the recipes include rice mixed with vinegar, said Toshi Sugiura, a sushi chef for 35 years and founder of the California Sushi Academy. Sugiura doesn't take a purist view of Griffith's recipes. Sushi restaurants are breaking with traditional sushi recipes even in Japan, he said. In Charlotte, restaurants such as Ru San's offer extensive sushi menus. Now Dean & DeLuca is diversifying the takeout sushi market. "I think this is a great opportunity for the American sushi industry," Sugiura said.
Dean & DeLuca's 11 New York stores will introduce the line this week. All 18 locations, including two others in Charlotte, will carry the brand by the end of January. Prices range from $6.95 to $9.95 for eight pieces. Sales so far are promising. Phillips Place has been packaging and selling 50 units daily since the launch on Dec. 7. In January, Moncayo expects to increase production to about 150 daily units to be shared among three Charlotte stores, with about 80 going to Phillips Place. Carole Brake made a special trip to the store for a chance to sample sushi made with cooked foods after a co-worker e-mailed her and others about it. The SouthPark resident and Realtor doesn't eat raw fish or seaweed, but this type of sushi has more appeal. "It has the low-calorie component and it's very fresh," she said. Some of those who do eat traditional sushi were also excited to give it a try. "We certainly like raw fish," said Ashley Hall, a Plaza Midwood resident who bought lobster rolls during a lunchtime visit with friend Holly Bundy last week. "It's something fun and different."