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Coligny wrote:Not the answer you are looking for...
But I have a tabblesaw...
And the second i find the proper keyword on amazon.jp I'll dump it to use a tracksaw instead:
https://www.google.co.jp/search?q=track ... 24&bih=649
Not saying tablesaws are useless... Just that a combo tracksaw and mittersaw sounds much better...
Coligny wrote:Some shitty no name stuff from kahma. Got a bulky blade cover but not anti backslash knife... So i'm barebacking it...
Track saws plunge, unlike circular saws. Like for router with plunge base, thats quite a bit of a difference. Also, unlike this simple guide, they are guide against left or right deviation.
And... A dado stack... Is the equivalent of few pass of a regular blade, not exactly magic or anything . Just expensive... If you have a router, the dado stack become a clumsy redundancy... Setting it up is much more annoying than switching a router bit.
Russell wrote:
Then again, if your stock is too narrow for the rail of your track saw, the only option seems to be atable saw.
Yokohammer wrote:Russel: what is it that you're going to "seriously need" a table saw for?
Russell wrote:Back to investigating the StaxTools 655 ”MEMPHIS” table saw, I found the following two blogs in Japanese:
Guy introducing his StaxTools table saw to the world. He mentions that it took him some time to set up the table saw and adjust it. He also shows his previous table saw of StaxTools, which he stopped using because the motor broke down. This is exactly one of the complaints I have read about the US-counterpart of this saw, which is the Ridgid R4510 Table Saw. Not very encouraging, methinks.
Guy describing the process of adjusting this saw, and discussion with other guy. Turns out this saw is a pain in the ass to adjust so that the blade is parallel to the fence. The issues he encounters in adjusting are exactly the ones I also read for the US model. There is another guy commenting on this blog, basically saying that he has the same issues. They also seem to agree that the quality is poor. Not very encouraging again.
So, nope, not gonna buy this one.
Russell wrote:Yokohammer wrote:Russel: what is it that you're going to "seriously need" a table saw for?
OK, I have had a long time to think this over. Thanks for the question. It gave me a lot to think about, and a man has never become dumber through reflection.
I conclude that the only thing I would need a table saw for would be for cutting narrow stock, like less that 10 cm wide. This is pretty hard to do with a hand circle saw. Panels of plywood would also be convenient by table saw, but it can be done with a hand circle saw too, albeit not as fast.
So, I will wait and see until I really need one, and then hope the Bosch is on the market in Japan...
Yokohammer wrote:I assume you mean ripping (lengthwise) 10cm wide stock. If you mean crosscutting then your mitre saw is ideal. The reason I manage to do without a table saw without too much anguish is that my mitre saw will handle widths up to about 310mm. The occasions I do need to cut wider panels are frankly a pain, but infrequent enough that setting up cuts with the circular saw is acceptable.
Russell wrote:Still satisfied with your Ryobi?
Yokohammer wrote:Russell wrote:Still satisfied with your Ryobi?
For what I'm doing at the moment, yes. However, I'm starting to see a future need for greater height (a 10" or maybe even 14" bandsaw).
But if your main purpose is ripping long stock then you probably need something more accurate. Bandsaws tend to drift a bit if you're trying to make dead straight cuts with a fence, simply because the blade twists so easily. So for ripping you need to install a wide blade and keep things carefully adjusted. I'm not confident that the Ryobi would be ideal for that. It's more for cutting circular blanks and odd shapes by eye for my purposes.
Yokohammer wrote:Just FTR, here's a supposedly "drift free" 14" bandsaw:
http://www.off.co.jp/index.php?id=4&c=76&b1=&s=11001793
Not cheap, but not expensive for what it is.
They also have an inexpensive 10" model that is currently on "Xmas Special":
http://www.off.co.jp/index.php?id=4&c=76&b1=&s=11001688
Grumpy Gramps wrote:You can always make some "sawboards" for ripping with your circular saw. I have made a few from MDF, they work very well. As you "lean" the blade against the board, you also get less runout/wabble of the blade which makes the cut pretty accurate. You need more time to prepare a good cut than with a table saw, but imho in the end you should come out with a similar quality.
Russell wrote:However, in my case, I may not follow that route, because (1) the cut will be at a non-standard angle, which will make my saw jig useless for cuts at other angles, and/or (2) the stock to be cut is narrower than the saw jig itself, which makes the whole setup a bit awkward.
Yokohammer wrote:Russell wrote:However, in my case, I may not follow that route, because (1) the cut will be at a non-standard angle, which will make my saw jig useless for cuts at other angles, and/or (2) the stock to be cut is narrower than the saw jig itself, which makes the whole setup a bit awkward.
How many of these angled cuts do you have to make?
If it's more than four, say, and they need to be accurate, I wouldn't hesitate to spend the time to make up a jig just for that.
Russell wrote:I will need eight of them.
OK, OK, I will probably end up making a jig for that if the roof rafter is not too shallow.
Coligny wrote:Some shitty no name stuff from kahma. Got a bulky blade cover but not anti backslash knife... So i'm barebacking it...
Track saws plunge, unlike circular saws. Like for router with plunge base, thats quite a bit of a difference. Also, unlike this simple guide, they are guide against left or right deviation.
And... A dado stack... Is the equivalent of few pass of a regular blade, not exactly magic or anything . Just expensive... If you have a router, the dado stack become a clumsy redundancy... Setting it up is much more annoying than switching a router bit.
Russell wrote:Coligny, your posting suddenly started to make so much sense that I decided not to buy a table saw, and just ordered a Makita RP-2301FC plunge router.
Wage Slave wrote:Help! I'm not sure I get it. So, to make those long angled rips in long stock Russell has realized a good plunge router with a simple jig/guide is an easier way and very accurate with it?
There's really a lot I really don't understand about routers. Must buy one soon and start learning.
Yokohammer wrote:I don't think that's it. I think Russell just wanted a nice router (perfectly understandable).
My understanding is that he's going to make a jig and use his circular saw for the angled cuts.
Yokohammer wrote:Wage Slave wrote:Help! I'm not sure I get it. So, to make those long angled rips in long stock Russell has realized a good plunge router with a simple jig/guide is an easier way and very accurate with it?
There's really a lot I really don't understand about routers. Must buy one soon and start learning.
I don't think that's it. I think Russell just wanted a nice router (perfectly understandable).
My understanding is that he's going to make a jig and use his circular saw for the angled cuts.
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