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Coligny wrote:Carefull with spare blades availability... that was my biggest concernn...
Coligny wrote:Salty wrote:BTW – both Coal Tar and Creosote are available at large home centers and either can be used for below the ground treatment to help delay the onset of rot. I use the coal tar to seal heartwood that is exposed on trees which have been damaged or topped out. I use the creosote for below the ground treatment of posts. Either can simply be painted on and left to dry before use of the timber.
how are they called / look like ?
Coligny wrote:You can use a tablesaw as jointer.
Or a tracksaw
Or a circular saw+guiderail
Yokohammer wrote:On the other hand, I do have something coming up that would make a thickness planer or drum sander very handy, and that thought is starting to scare me a little.
Russell wrote:Yokohammer wrote:On the other hand, I do have something coming up that would make a thickness planer or drum sander very handy, and that thought is starting to scare me a little.
How about using a router for planing your stock for flatness and to thickness?
Russell wrote:Well, with hand planes you cannot get your stock to equal thickness.
Russell wrote:And I find them a pain to work with. But then again, yes, maybe I should practice more...
Russell wrote:So, Hammer, why were you contemplating to buy an electrical thickness planer if those hand versions work so well? I assume you do not need to work on a large stock?
Yokohammer wrote:
However, I think I've decided that a disk sander will do for that application, which means I won't have to buy any new equipment and clutter up my limited shop space any more. Gotta think these things through carefully before pulling the trigger.
Yokohammer wrote:Russell wrote:So, Hammer, why were you contemplating to buy an electrical thickness planer if those hand versions work so well? I assume you do not need to work on a large stock?
An excellent and perceptive question.
You are quite right ... I don't need to work on large stock. What I need to flatten are rings or half-rings of glued segments for segmented bowls to be turned on the lathe. That will need to be done multiple times for each bowl or vase or container (or whatever), and since hand planing is easy in straight lines but not so easy around curves, I thought some automation might be in order.
However, I think I've decided that a disk sander will do for that application, which means I won't have to buy any new equipment and clutter up my limited shop space any more. Gotta think these things through carefully before pulling the trigger.
Yokohammer wrote:I use them for edge planing and truing up joints just about every time I'm putting two or more pieces of wood together. There is simply no power tool that is as quick and convenient or leaves a better surface. The only real "skill" involved is in sharpening the blades, and that's worthwhile learning anyway.
Wage Slave wrote:Yokohammer wrote:I use them for edge planing and truing up joints just about every time I'm putting two or more pieces of wood together. There is simply no power tool that is as quick and convenient or leaves a better surface. The only real "skill" involved is in sharpening the blades, and that's worthwhile learning anyway.
Nowhere near the same league, but for the kind of rough and ready work within my compass an old Stanley surform plane is a very handy and near idiot proof tool.
Grumpy Gramps wrote:Here is my collection, pretty close to what Yokohammer seems to have:
Stanley #4 and blockplane (off eBay), a spokeshave, which I find incredibly useful, two Japanese planes from the home-center, which are OK but a PITA to adjust and this "sureform" type rasp also from a home center, which I use a lot. Least used is the larger Japanese plane, which I could live without.
Still on the lookout for an affordable Stanley #6 or similar for planing larger boards (no space for a thickness planer now) and a round bottom spokeshave. Everything easily available on eBay, but some sellers get really greedy on shipping cost these days.
Russell wrote:All this talks about planes makes me wonder by what they are actually replaced?
Does one need a thickness planer AND a surface planer to replace a set of hand planes?
I think a hand planer just smoothes the surface, but does not do a job as well as a thickness planer to craft stock in constant thickness.
I've got a set of Japanese hand planes, and used them in the past. And yes, I sharpened them with stones. However, I found them a PITA. Did not enjoy that at all and was not satisfied with the results. Of course, I am not a professional carpenter, and I do not have a lot of time to tune these things, and to learn how to use them like an expert.
I gave one of my planes away to my son. Hope he has a better use for it...
Yokohammer wrote:Russell wrote:All this talks about planes makes me wonder by what they are actually replaced?
Does one need a thickness planer AND a surface planer to replace a set of hand planes?
I think a hand planer just smoothes the surface, but does not do a job as well as a thickness planer to craft stock in constant thickness.
I've got a set of Japanese hand planes, and used them in the past. And yes, I sharpened them with stones. However, I found them a PITA. Did not enjoy that at all and was not satisfied with the results. Of course, I am not a professional carpenter, and I do not have a lot of time to tune these things, and to learn how to use them like an expert.
I gave one of my planes away to my son. Hope he has a better use for it...
I don't think hand planes have been replaced. They're still standard tools.
If you have a number of large boards that you need to plane to a specific thickness, or need to plane large boards to a specific thickness regularly, then you need a thickness planer (noting that historically it was done by hand, but a thickness planer is a whole helluva lot faster for high volume). So in a factory that mass produces furniture, for example, a thickness planer might be the last tool that touches the wood before finishing.
A workshop that produces higher quality furniture might use a thickness planer + hand planes. Quite a few woodworkers do this: get down to the required dimensions quickly with power planers, then plane by hand for a finer finish.
But if you can use a hand plane and only need to work on smaller stock, then hand planes are probably all you need. The board in the video that started this discussion would be a quick job for someone who is used to hand planing.
Now ... as for what planes are used for, so far we seem to be talking about thickness and surfacing. But hand planes are ideal for joinery too, and they can be used to work on details that a power tool couldn't even approach. I even used planes on that stupid little turning tool rack I posted in the Tinkering thread. There were a couple of rough edges off the bandsaw ... they were straightened and cleaned up in just a few strokes of the block plane. Some joined edges weren't even, so I simply planed them even.
You can do the same by sanding but there are two main drawbacks:
* 1) sanding takes longer and requires more effort, and
* 2) sanding makes tons of harmful sawdust while planing only makes shavings.
Oh yeah, and planing makes a nicer finish that doesn't even need sanding.
Nope, no replacement that I know of. I think hand planing is just generally overlooked because it is seen as difficult. There is a learning curve to be sure, but once you've got it you will choose to plane rather than sand in many situations. Promise.
Large stock = large planeRussell wrote:Anyway, most of the stuff I plan to do is on large stock
Coligny wrote:So, that's how tey make notepads...
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