Tokyo's Tsukiji Fish Market Threatened by Globalization
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``A good tuna is like a sumo wrestler,'' says Shiro Kamoshita, 61, who represents the third generation in his family to work at Tsukiji as an intermediate wholesaler, judging the freshness and quality of a tuna by peering at the flesh in its tail end with a flashlight and perhaps taking a taste.
``A sumo wrestler eats plenty, but because he exercises, the fat is smooth and has lots of muscle. It's the same for a tuna.'
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Foreign fishermen have been eager to cash in on Japan's demand for high-quality tuna, which has been surging since the late 1970s. In 2003, Japan imported $12.4 billion of fishery commodities, more than any other country, according to the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations. Japan consumes about a third of the world's total production of tuna each year, or about 630,000 tons.
That's about 11 pounds per person per year. Most of it is top-quality, sashimi-grade tuna, not the kind sold in cans in most of the rest of the world. Until recently, almost all of it was sold in fish markets such as Tsukiji, which began its daily auctions of tuna, shrimp and sea urchin in the 1930s.