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Greji wrote:Not on the house scene, but I felt that I must comment on this statement. It is the result of any FG dumb enough to marry a J-female and expect an even break. When I got married, my J-father-in-law told me during the mass drenching of sake at the Hiroen, that "this is one Nichibei Sensou, that Japan is going to win".
When I asked him why he would say that, he said that he had been married to a Japanese woman for 40 years and had as a Japanese, never come close to winning a fufukenka with my wife's mother. He dutifully noted that since I was an FG, I didn't have the slightest possible chance to even get a word in edgewise!
He turned out to be very astute....
ttjereth wrote:We're currently rehammering out our plans, trying to do away with any and all "unnecessary" space. As it stand the second floor of the house is starting to look like you are going to go up the stairs and just be faced with 5 doors. No hallway, landings or anything
Grumblebum wrote:This is largely a personal preference, but in my opinion you should try and build the actual house as large as possible, especially if it is 2x4/2x6.
Reason being, its easier to add the odd extra interior wall to make new rooms later on than it is to add a whole extension if you end up needing it.
If you do the design right, you can start with a nice, open design with lots of space (and maybe a bit cheaper), and have the flexibility of being able to make extra rooms later without a lot of expense.
Also keep in mind that (depending on the builder to some extent) the tsubo pricing system is just there to give you an idea of what your house should cost. It doesn't necessarily mean that a house of size A will definitely cost A*price/tsubo.
If you come up with a very simple design with very few 'fancy' bits, and minimal features, you should be able to keep the price down and still have a large, flexible structure. So you really need to look beyond the tsubo price and see how flexible the builder will be.
Ie, if you have the land then you can just build a big rectangular house - by far the cheapest design. Costs go up when you have odd shapes and funny angles.
One last thing - flooring can account for a fair chunk of the money, so see what cheap options there are. Also keep in mind that you don't have to use the same type of flooring all over - ie, you could get some nice stuff for the common living areas, but go for ultra cheap stuff for bedrooms.
kusai Jijii wrote:I built a home thru Panahome and moved in Feb last year. (...) I thought that if I was going to build a house, it better bloody well still be standing when I finish the last payment (in 34 years) which is something you cant guarantee with many Japanese building companies.(...)
F
2112 Corporation. The owner of the company is American and lives in Japan -- building 2x4 custom homes.
Bucky wrote:You might just give these guys a call. I have been told the following:
2112 Japan Office
4-3-27 Seike-machi
Oita, Japan
tel 080-5202-8695
fax: 097-569-3022
email: [email="two112corp@hotmail.colm"]two112corp@hotmail.com[/email]
Blah Pete wrote:Since the subject has sunk to the floor level, has anyone checked out the heated floor systems that seem to be gaining in popularity. I looked into a retrofit from Tokyo Gas in my used place but I will be moving in a year so I passed it up.
Heating the floor seems to be more energy efficient and can actually warm the room. I have stayed in hotel rooms in Korea where the only source of heat was the heated floor and the rooms were very warm.
ttjereth wrote:Honestly though, I am not sure how comfortable heated floors could make a room through heating without being unbearably hot to walk on themselves? We have any physicists in here who can do the math?
TennoChinko wrote:I know this article is almost six years old, but I am wondering if anything has changed w/r consumer rights. One of the offending companies named in the article is Mitsui Real Estate - so it's not like sticking with a well-regarded brand name offers any sort of protection...
http://www.davidappleyard.com/japan/jp17.htm
The wake-up call was the magnitude 7.2 earthquake that slammed Kobe in early 1995 killing 6,400 people. As workers cleared the rubble left by some 440,000 collapsed buildings, it soon became apparent that many new houses built by name-brand Japanese developers had collapsed while older houses, including many using foreign construction materials and methods, stood firm.
Homeowner Nagako Itoga lifted up a tatami mat to reveal a corner beam of her \32.5 Million house almost completely detached from the foundation. Then she pointed out the unsound roof supports, tilting hallways and floorboards so rotten the ground is visible below.
"I'm so angry with this atrocious construction, I considered lighting myself on fire with kerosene in front of the government building," she said "But my daughter pointed out that it would be far better to stay alive and fight those responsible for this mess."
Behan wrote:Sorry if this is already posted here, but what I heard about zairai-koho is that it does worse in earthquakes than 2x4 or 2x6 construction.
Actually, I think it was a video given to us by Selco that said that with zairai-koho the wooden beams are further apart, although they have a diagonal beam between them, and they can twist more when an earthquake happens.
With 2x4 or 2x6 there are a lot more posts so the walls are a lot more rigid and they will twist less.
Have you heard much about metal-framed houses? I was surprised to see how a neighborhood house's entire frame was made by metal. Only the roof beams were wooden. I suppose they might have used wood for interior walls, though. It must be an incredibly strong house and of course it won't rot but I don't know how fast it will rust or corrode. It could be a lot pricier, too.
Anyway, good luck with everything.
- GALVANIC CORROSION: When other common metals are used in residential construction, primarily copper water pipes, they can not be in direct contact with galvanized metal studs. Such contact will eventually lead to corrosion and deterioration of the two materials.
- THERMAL CONDUCTIVITY: Metal is a far better conductor of heat and cold than wood. Hence, all metal studs in exterior walls must be insulated to avoid excess heat transfer through the wall system and condensation damage on all interior surfaces of exterior walls at the studs.
- STRENGTH: Common metal framing members only exceed similar wood members in compression and tension, not in deflection. Hence metal members require more bracing to be of equal value. (Simply hold a metal stud in one hand and a wood stud in the other and shake them...you will understand this difference.)
- NUMBER OF PARTS: To solve the problems listed above, a metal-framed building requires more parts (which means increased costs in material and labor for assembly) than a similar wood-framed building. For example, grommets are required to protect pipes and wires passing through the metal stud.
- STRUCTURAL FAILURE IN A FIRE: This is our primary concern. When any metal is exposed to increased heat, such as temperatures common in a house fire, it will suddenly fail structurally when it losses its temper. In contrast, wood will actually retain its strength, even when burning, until it looses sufficient area to support itself. Ask any fireman about their concerns of fighting a fire in a metal framed building.
ttjereth wrote:When we actually get around to building ours, we plan on spending the extra 1,000,000 yen to have a third party oversee and inspect the construction as it goes on. For a bit more surety that the house won't fall on our heads when we build it, I figure it's worth the money.
Grumblebum wrote:I can't remember the name of the organisation or the cost, but when we built inspections by this third party organisation were included by default. I'm pretty sure it was a lot less than 1,000,000yen though. The inspections were done at set stages during the construction process and the reports which came directly to us were quite detailed.
Of course, there's no substitute for your own eyes - we made sure we visited the site at least once a week, and without warning the builders too. I also did as much research as possible about what was being built for us, so I had an idea about what the construction should look like, and could talk to the workers without looking like a complete idiot.
Of course, we always made sure we took along a good assortment of drinks and nibblies for the workers too..
If we'd been living closer to the site I would have been out there even more frequently.
ttjereth wrote:I've heard about the taking drinks and stuff to the workers when visiting the site, I guess root beer would be a bad idea, huh?
Greji wrote:You're probably talking about the tatemae. This is officially the ceremony held when the roof is completed and the shinto priest blesses the house. The work for the day stops at that point and you are required to get the drunken daikesan tachi fed and drunker yet. The alleged idea behind this is that if they enjoy your treatment of them at this party, they will endeavor to complete your house in the best of form and refrain from such practices as hanging the doors sideways, forgetting such trivial things as omitting every other step in the stairs and so forth.
ttjereth wrote:No, I mean when visiting the construction site while the house is still going up, it is considered polite to buy a bunch of pet bottles of ocha and such and maybe some bento for the builders. Helps to keep them from getting too surly about you interrupting their work (despite the fact its your house and all that).
ttjereth wrote:(despite the fact its your house and all that).
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