The 500,000-odd semi-arid acres in the Sacramento Valley make up a microclimate, one of three in the world, where japonica rice flourishes (the others are in Japan and Australia). This is not the swampland of traditional rice paddies, but then japonica is not traditional rice. Unlike long-grain indica, the fluffy rice that feeds most of the world, California's short- and medium-grain japonica cooks up moist and sticky. This is sushi rice extraordinaire.