Fashion Matriarch Ayako Koshino Dies

[Mulboyne]

[floatl][/floatl]Japan Times: Ayako Koshino Obituary
Ayako Koshino, a veteran fashion designer in her own right and mother of the three famous designer daughters Hiroko, Junko and Michiko, died of a stroke early Sunday, her family said. She was 92. The daughter of a kimono retailer in Kishiwada, Osaka Prefecture, Koshino dropped out of school to study dressmaking and opened a dressmaking shop in her home town in 1934. After her husband, who was himself a tailor, died in World War II, she single-handedly raised their three daughters. Even after her children became successful designers, she continued to make clothes at her own shop, and was active in recent years in designing clothes for the elderly.

[Taro Toporific]

Ayako Koshino... a veteran fashion designer in her own right and mother of the three famous designer daughters Hiroko, Junko and Michiko....

[Mulboyne]

There was a play last year about the Koshino clan and plans for a film version. Hiroko Koshino's daughter, Yuma, is also a fashion designer. After working with her aunt, Michiko, and her mum, she has her own label. She designed the uniforms for MK Taxi.

[drpepper]

wow taxi uniforms.. now there is a challenge.. must be nice to come from a famous family

[Mulboyne]

wow taxi uniforms.. now there is a challenge.. must be nice to come from a famous family

It probably wasn't a challenge but it wasn't a gimme either. You only get a contract to design corporate clothing if you've made your mark elsewhere. Yuma Koshino's couture designs have been well received. I'm sure it didn't hurt that she's part of the clan but the Koshinos are unique even in Japan. All three of Ayako's daughters developed their own brands and international reputation. Yuma is still a relative newcomer and she'll find it difficult to match their success but how many other sons and daughters of famous designers have made it? If it was only about family connections then there should be scores of them.

IHT: The young apprentice: Japan's secret weapon

[Greji]

wow taxi uniforms.. now there is a challenge.. must be nice to come from a famous family

That was the first thing I thought too, Doc, but then after thinking about it for awhile, I changed my mind. MK is huge in Kansai and has been in Tokyo for going on ten years. We use them and they are required to be in the uniform of the season, just like the military. They are big on their image and the drivers must always exit the vehicle, doff the cap and so forth. They actually have people monitoring them and one driver told me they can be fined (by the company) if they don't follow all the protocols. I would imagine there are at least five or six separate uniform combinations for each male and female uniform, so it may well have been a very lucrative contract.

[Taro Toporific]

...the Koshinos are unique even in Japan. All three of Ayako's daughters developed their own brands and international reputation..

I assume you've met them face-to-face like I have. Gracious folks all of them...they even spent time to talk to a nobody like me at a party... but damn they're more fuckquing SCARY to look at than me, Uncle Fester.

[drpepper]

I am sure is was a lucretive contract and it was her name that got it for her. There are a lot of good Japanese designers out there that lack for funding for shows especially outside of Japan. My wife has been in the business for 20 years and a good friend of ours is premiering his collection this year in Tokyo, he has been working forward to get to that point and now is finally in the posistion to spend the 20 mil or so to do it. Only took him about 18 years to do it... I am not familiar with yuma but will ask the little woman about her, but I am betting she is mediocre at best. The reason you don't hear about other famous designer kids is that most are men and well most of them don't have kids if you know what I mean. How many of them have kids that are designers? I'd bet if they were they would get a leg up too. You know that name recognition is a very big part of Japanese fashion.

[Mulboyne]

The reason you don't hear about other famous designer kids is that most are men and well most of them don't have kids if you know what I mean.

Congratulations. You've managed to go from Japanese stereoptypes to homophobic stereotypes in one graceless step. You are free to assume that all male fashion designers are gay if you wish but, even if that was true, the Japanese fashion world has been open to female designers for many years. I'm sure you've heard of Hanae Mori and Rei Kawakubo.

[kamome]

That was the first thing I thought too, Doc, but then after thinking about it for awhile, I changed my mind. MK is huge in Kansai and has been in Tokyo for going on ten years. We use them and they are required to be in the uniform of the season, just like the military. They are big on their image and the drivers must always exit the vehicle, doff the cap and so forth. They actually have people monitoring them and one driver told me they can be fined (by the company) if they don't follow all the protocols. I would imagine there are at least five or six separate uniform combinations for each male and female uniform, so it may well have been a very lucrative contract.

MK Taxi is by far the best taxi company I ever used in Tokyo. Their cars are more hi-tech, cleaner and more comfortable than any other taxi. As you said, the drivers are extremely courteous and follow polite protocols. I was lucky to have worked across the street from a building that had some kind of exclusive relationship with MK Taxi, so I was able to ride in them frequently.

[Greji]

MK Taxi is by far the best taxi company I ever used in Tokyo. Their cars are more hi-tech, cleaner and more comfortable than any other taxi. As you said, the drivers are extremely courteous and follow polite protocols. I was lucky to have worked across the street from a building that had some kind of exclusive relationship with MK Taxi, so I was able to ride in them frequently.

Hey Gull! that wasn't Shiroyama Hills was it? If so, we may well have been neighbors, that was my previous office address, before we moved to where the elite meet (to figure out how to pay the rent), Roppongi Hills!

[drpepper]

Talk to the wifey and sure enough, this yuma chick is a wanna be hack whose only claim to fame is the name. Evidently the taxi gig is exactly the kind of gigs that hacks do as well. Evidently the real fashionistas consider her a joke.

As for fashion designers... well lets see.. I know al least 8 famous non-japanese ones that are all gay.. and maybe 2 possibly 3 that aren't although the non-gay ones are less talented but are more know because of the size of their companies.. in Japan lets see.. Kaneko? ... Kansai? ... Kenzo? ... Miyake is non-gay and I think Yamamoto may have tried both sides though I know he used to do the comme de garcion chick.. there are 2 other guys who I forget now and both were flame throwers so.. Thats the thing about stereo-types.. they are partially based in fact.

[Mulboyne]

Your first point was that Yuma Koshino only gets work because of her name. I have no opinion on her abilities - she may well be mediocre as your wife believes - but I know that the fashion world is fairly brutal and her name alone wouldn't get her the work. To support that, I pointed out that successful children are very rare to which you said that is because most designers are men and most are gay. I rejected this on the basis that Japan has many successful female designers who, along with the families of successful male designers, provide a fairly deep pool of kids who have tried and failed to make an impact. You replied by listing gay male designers which doesn't seem to advance your argument at all. Only a fool would deny that there are many gay designers but to claim they constitute most of the fashion business in Japan is false.

I'd be surprised if you friend believes it has taken him 18 years to succeed because of Yuma Koshino. I'm pleased he has made it but it doesn't take everyone that long to make their mark. Just ask someone like Akiko Ogawa, who established her own label at 28.

[Greji]

Miyake is non-gay and I think Yamamoto may have tried both sides though I know he used to do the comme de garcion chick.. there are 2 other guys who I forget now and both were flame throwers so.. Thats the thing about stereo-types.. they are partially based in fact.

That's hard to believe about Yamamoto being a possible switch hitter. We contracted him for an one day appearance at a PR event in Kansai and he showed up with this J-babe on his elbow that had our entire staff slobbering and inconherent for almost two days. He told me it was his "current" squeeze, but who knows? Could have been eye wash for his public! I guess you can't tell the J-rope skippers without a program.

[drpepper]

Well I said I am not sure about Yamamoto, I know he likes the babes (my wife used to intern with him) but I think he has flirted with the other side.

As for Yuma.. she is a hack. There are lots of hacks that can get work. There are also many young designers who have managed to get a collection together (not the same as having your own label which is piss simple to do.. just start up a company) most of those people have backing. If the chick is hot you wanna bet she didn't sleeze her way in by flirting with the big wigs?? I know a couple of guys who got collections early as well.. one came from a loaded family and the other pretty much had to sell his soul and 90% interest in his label to get the $$ for it. As for me quoting gay male designers, well, you hinted that I was just pointing out streotypes and for your information Japan has several world famous designers and all of them are men. There is not (koshino's included) a single woman that has made a major impact on the fashion world outside of Japan. Michiko Koshino is based in London and is perhaps the closest to some noteriety as is the comme de garcon chick whose name still fails to come to me. Ask anyone in the U.S. who the koshino's are and most will never have heard of them.. ask about Kansai or Yamamto (or Miyake and perhaps Kankeo) and they will know.

[kamome]

Hey Gull! that wasn't Shiroyama Hills was it? If so, we may well have been neighbors, that was my previous office address, before we moved to where the elite meet (to figure out how to pay the rent), Roppongi Hills!

Yes it was! I worked across the street, in the building with Pororoca and a British pub. I also was a member of the gym at Shiroyama Hills.

I like the area, but it was a lousy neighborhood for finding a good lunch spot.

[Mulboyne]

There is not (koshino's included) a single woman that has made a major impact on the fashion world outside of Japan.

You can try to change the terms of the argument if you wish but I have never restricted the discussion to international sales. The domestic market is huge in itself so what matters is who are the biggest Japanese designers overall and there are plenty of female designers here. Is this your way of saying you concede the point or would you also argue that the biggest bands in Japan are those with the biggest international reputation?

Michiko Koshino is based in London and is perhaps the closest to some noteriety as is the comme de garcon chick whose name still fails to come to me.

Funny you can't recall the name because I gave it to you a few posts earlier.

[drpepper]

Yuma Koshino's couture designs have been well received.

All three of Ayako's daughters developed their own brands and international reputation. Yuma is still a relative newcomer and she'll find it difficult to match their success but how many other sons and daughters of famous designers have made it? If it was only about family connections then there should be scores of them.

Funny I don't see any mention of Japan only here.. in fact you said specifically "international reputation" which is BS.

You can try to change the terms of the argument if you wish but I have never restricted the discussion to international sales.

Sure looks like you are the one trying to change the terms.. you are the one you said international so I merely followed up on that!

Is this your way of saying you concede the point...

I think you have already done that at this point.

The domestic market is huge in itself so what matters is who are the biggest Japanese designers overall and there are plenty of female designers here.

Well actually I wasn't talking about sales but rather who was a good designer. The biggest is not best usually.. look at McDonalds and Windows as cases in point.

[drpepper]

Oh, and you asked about kids of designers getting gigs because of their names... well in addition to hack Yuma Koshino there are : Yamamoto's daughter is doing his brand now, Mori Hanae's daughter, Ashita Jun's daughter, all of these got their collections due to their names value.

And yes I will concede that Kawakubo Rei is perhaps the most famous of Japanese women designers internationally.

Now if you could provide some data that shows famous designers children failing at design then that would at least provide some counterpoint.

[Mulboyne]

I see you are a little confused. Saying that I am not restricting my views about the Japanese fashion business to the overseas success of Japanese fashion designers does not in turn mean that I'm restricting them to domestic success. That's why you don't see any mention of "Japan only" (meaning domestic market only) because I've never said that. It obviously includes both. That's why, as you noted, I spoke of the Koshinos as having developed their "own brands and international reputations". That's why I gave you the music analogy. The Japanese music business isn't just Puffy, YMO and Kitaro. Nor is it just Ayumi Hamsasaki, SMAP, and Utada Hikaru.

You may want to talk about who is a good designer but I have no views on that and have said as much. We are talking about successful designers and how they succeed. You've offered the observation that one designer has achieved success on the strength of her family name alone and you haven't backed it up. The fashion world is a business. However a designer gets an opportunity, they still have to deliver something the market wants to take advantage of it.

[Mulboyne]

Now if you could provide some data that shows famous designers children failing at design then that would at least provide some counterpoint.

That's a good question. You mention that Hanae Mori's daughter is now a designer for the house. Actually, Pamela Mori (formerly Harris) is her daughter-in-law, married to her son Akira who has been shunted off to run the administration rather than the design side of the business because he couldn't hack it. Nor could brother Kei. The thing about family failures is that they are rarely very public because no designer would want to compromise their own brand image by putting out their kids' sub-standard designs. I agree that Yamamoto's daughter, Limi, has had a big leg up in the business by helping her father but she now wants to set up on her own with her husband. We'll see whether she can make it. Too early to call that a success or failure. Tae Ashida is probably a success and may well take over her father's company but her sister couldn't take advantage of the name.

[drpepper]

you don't see any mention of "Japan only" (meaning domestic market only) because I've never said that. It obviously includes both. That's why, as you noted, I spoke of the Koshinos as having developed their "own brands and international reputations". That's why I gave you the music analogy. The Japanese music business isn't just Puffy, YMO and Kitaro. Nor is it just Ayumi Hamsasaki, SMAP, and Utada Hikaru.

You've offered the observation that one designer has achieved success on the strength of her family name alone and you haven't backed it up. The fashion world is a business. However a designer gets an opportunity, they still have to deliver something the market wants to take advantage of it.

So you gonna tell me that Junko and Yuma Koshino have international reputations?? Don't think so.

Also you think that Yuma without the name and money that goes with it would be a successful designer with her own company? Don't think so.

It is not hard to offer mediocrity to the public if you have the funds and connections to start up the enterprise. I am not saying anything that doesn't apply to the general business world as well. I have met many a shacho that ran companies and were pretty much morons but had money and family to start the business and the hiring of a few staff guys and viola you got a company that is at least in the black. Had that guy started with nothing he would have ended his life in some low-level management position at a small company. Name value has an even bigger importantance in fashion. All I said was that I think that she is a hack (my wife, in the fashion biz for 20 years says so too) who only got what she has because of the name, this is purely based on the design work that she has done. You can be a big success at Wal-Mart but that doesn't mean that anything in the fasihon world will give you the nod as being a talented designer which is basically what you were implying about Yuma.

[Mulboyne]

So you gonna tell me that Junko and Yuma Koshino have international reputations?? Don't think so.

Junko Koshino? Yes. She has the lowest international profile of the three sisters but, in her early forays, going back to her first shows in the 70's, she ranked in the top 15 for overseas sales for Japanese designers. That's better than most have achieved and, even though she never got near that again, she's still known in Paris and Milan. Yuma? Of course not. She only has domestic success which is why I was surprised you wanted to talk only about international success when the issue in question was Yuma's business which is only domestic. Keep up.

Also you think that Yuma without the name and money that goes with it would be a successful designer with her own company?

You are going in circles. I already said "I'm sure it didn't hurt that she's part of the clan" but you don't get to her level on that alone. When have I ever said she is a talented designer? I haven't said anything about that; actually, I said "she may well be mediocre as your wife believes". I think the fact that you are willing to denigrate designers for Wal-Mart and imply that another successful female designer must have "sleazed her way in by flirting with the big wigs" indicates that you don't have a particularly good grip on the industry. I don't have to like what anyone does in fashion but I can respect it when they find a market without needing to accuse them of nepotism or screwing around. Most struggling designers who dream of a Paris collection would kill for a regular gig designing for Shimamura because it isn't that easy a job to do well. Some of the most up and coming apparel designers in the last few years have found a market for their talents in, guess what? - dogwear. Spit on that if you want but it is lucrative work if you get it right.

[drpepper]

[quote="Mulboyne"]
You are going in circles. I already said "I'm sure it didn't hurt that she's part of the clan" but you don't get to her level on that alone. When have I ever said she is a talented designer? I haven't said anything about that]

And you know more about the market? My wife has been in the biz 20 years.. started at Onward, interned with Yamamoto and most recently worked at Mitsui apparel and oversaw 100+ million $$ in sales a year on her own accounts. I think she has a good grip on how these things work.

[amdg]

And you know more about the market? My wife has been in the biz 20 years..

Yeah, maybe he does, and maybe you don't. Don't start trading off your wife's accomplishments - it just makes you look like a pussy. And, also, Mulboyne is much smarter than you are.

[Greji]

Yeah, maybe he does, and maybe you don't. Don't start trading off your wife's accomplishments - it just makes you look like a pussy. And, also, Mulboyne is much smarter than you are.

My daddy can whip your daddy!

BTW, Mulboyne cannot be considered as smart. He doesn't drink enough yet!

[drpepper]

Reffering to someone who is a pro in the business makes me look like a pussy? Well buddy I went to Van Nuys High and we kick the shit out of Reseda so come on down from Kobe over to Osaka and I will show you who is a pussy!

[amdg]

Reffering to someone who is a pro in the business makes me look like a pussy? Well buddy I went to Van Nuys High and we kick the shit out of Reseda so come on down from Kobe over to Osaka and I will show you who is a pussy!

Jeez, I was just trying to help you out.

[drpepper]

Jeez, I was just trying to help you out.

sure you were now don't make me hurt you again!