
The snow has been falling steadily for two days. Huge flakes have piled up into thick slabs on the gently sloping roofs, adding an entire storey to the height of the houses. As I step through the door of an ornately carved wooden building, the temperature suddenly rises. Billows of steam slowly climb to the vaulted roof, where a skylight filters a glow from outside. There are about 15 men inside, most naked, sitting in or gingerly lowering themselves into two square baths, their waters lapping up to the edge of the dark flagstone floors. This is an onsen, a communal spa-bath; apres-ski Japanese style. Strange as it seems, it's something more and more British skiers are about to experience. Japan is this year's new must-visit ski destination, with the two biggest tour operators starting packages from December. True, there's the 12-hour flight; yes, there are the rumours of epic prices for food and drink; and, yes, there's the language barrier and lack of cutlery; so it must have something seriously good going for it to compensate. It does...Japan is a winter sports paradise...more...
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