Little Devils

[Mulboyne]

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Several bloggers have recently picked up on the koakuma boom. Since Shibuya's 109 building, a fashion mecca for Japanese girls, has just announced that six new boutiques selling koakuma fashions will soon open in the complex, FGs might like to catch up on it for small-talk purposes.

Meta no Tame has a piece called "Little Devils" while Patrick Macias has a good piece on the trend here. He also does a good analysis of magazine "Celeb-ich" in this recent post. Steve over at Tokyo Damage also covered the same magazine last year here.

A close study of these texts ought to bring everyone nicely up to speed.

[Mulboyne]

Yomiuri: Only premium in 'gyaru' mag is content

As the world's magazine circulations continue to flag, Koakuma Ageha, a publication targeting a rather limited audience, has increased its readership sevenfold to 350,000. Although it is aimed at young bar hostesses, the monthly is supported by a wider audience, ranging from schoolteachers to office workers. Hisako Nakajo has been working as editor-in-chief of the magazine since its conception. She may look like a flamboyantly dressed model, but she is actually a very dedicated editor. Nakajo apparently is the central force in keeping up strong readership in this economic downturn. Most, if not all, readers are impressed with the contents of Koakuma Ageha, whose title roughly translates as "devilish butterfly." The magazine is packed with photos and information on the fashion, hairstyles, shoes and accessories of women dubbed "agejo," hostesses who also work as models for the magazine.

According to information carried on the last page of the September issue, 91,576 photographs were taken for the issue, or 3,000 shots a day. Nakajo cites the number as a "mark of quality," displaying the real effort that editors put into making Koakuma Ageha. Many articles carry practical information and explanatory photographs. One article, for example, explains in detail the way a popular model for the magazine applies eyeliner, using life-size photographs and a detailed explanation of the makeup that is precise down to 0.1 millimeter. "Information just overflows from our pages," Nakajo said. She always tells her staffers the page layouts must help readers to thoroughly understand what is shown. She will say, for example: "You have to explain in every detail when putting together a page on how to use a hot curler. You really have to be very kind, and elaborate as if teaching primary school children their multiplication tables."

Nakajo always gives detailed directions to her staff on everything from the space between characters in text to where to place illustrations. She says that turning out a half-baked magazine would mean cheating readers out of their 580 yen per copy. Nakajo says she tends to overwork and often stays overnight at the office as she finds real pleasure in knowing that her magazine correctly and precisely carries what young women really want to know. "I sometimes work until I pass out. I'm like the main character of Hatarakiman [a manga by Moyoko Anno about a workaholic woman editor]. I give everything I have to my work," Nakajo said. "The working conditions are better now than compared to when we first started. I used to wish that there were 10 of me or that I had four arms."

Nakajo, 30, joined Eichi Publishing Inc. after graduating from university. Having worked at various magazines geared for "gyaru"--girls and young women with a particular style of makeup and attire--she became editor in chief of the fashion magazine Happie Nuts in 2005. She became responsible for the first issue of Koakuma & Nuts published later that year. The magazine assumed its new name of Koakuma Ageha in June 2006, and became a monthly in October 2006. The circulation of Koakuma & Nuts was initially 50,000, but that has grown to as many as 350,000 since it became Koakuma Ageha.

The native of Asakusa, Tokyo, said she shares something in common with her father in terms of her attitude toward her job. According to Nakajo, he is a dedicated carpenter who "worked from sunup to sundown seven days a week." "I can somehow spot which houses he built when I go walking through Asakusa. I can sense something like the smell of a man, a dedicated homebuilder..." Similarly, Nakajo said, she wants to make a magazine that she feels is sincere and honest enough to put her name on it.

Koakuma Ageha may appear to be a magazine with light content, but it is based on very serious editorial policies. Nakajo, for example, tries to avoid making any kind of trend forecasts. "We won't say particular clothes or colors will make the rounds this winter, for example. I will not carry any article that takes a high-handed position, leading readers in a certain direction in terms of fashion or lifestyle. I want to carry information on the clothes or cosmetics they're already fond of," Nakajo said. She is also against the practice, common these days, of women magazine's carrying premiums. "I'm proud I have never allowed my magazine to be stuffed with unappealing, boring giveaway items. If we can afford to include premiums, even just 1 yen worth, it is our style to instead spend that money on the magazine's content," Nakajo said.

Amid a deep slump in the publishing industry, Koakuma Ageha has been steadily increasing its circulation. The readership is spreading among women with so-called "square" jobs such as bank employees, schoolteachers and general office workers. "They make up about half of our readership now," Nakajo said. "Whether you work during the day or at night does not make any difference regarding the quest for information about makeup, hair styles and clothes. All girls are seriously looking for information on how to make themselves look prettier." Nakajo said she has wanted to work at a magazine since primary school. "I was glued to the pages of Seventeen and Petit Seven." She said she wanted to be fashionable like a model at that time.

When she joined the publishing company to realize her dream of becoming an editor, she said, "I pledged to make a magazine that would keep people engrossed like those that once fascinated me, or one that will give them even more excitement," Nakajo said. To that end, she is ready to pursue her policy of conveying useful information to readers in an appropriate and easy manner.

[Mulboyne]

Koakuma has just published this picture in the new March edition. The caption reads "We love you Iijima Ai. Rest in peace forever". Japanese netizens are accusing the fashion magazine publisher of bad taste.

[Mulboyne]

[Typhoon]

While style is a matter of personal preference



I have to admit that this hyper-girly hostess bar look does absolutely zenzen for me.

"a wild civility: Do more bewitch me, than when art
Is too precise in every part."

Years ago during the peak of the tea hair look I saw a stunning women in Takatsuki wearing her hair natural long straight and black - almost walked into a column.

[Greji]

Excellent thread. I shall therefore cooperate with its spirit and go out tonight and do a hostess.

[Behan]

While style is a matter of personal preference



I have to admit that this hyper-girly hostess bar look does absolutely zenzen for me.

"a wild civility: Do more bewitch me, than when art
Is too precise in every part."

Years ago during the peak of the tea hair look I saw a stunning women in Takatsuki wearing her hair natural long straight and black - almost walked into a column.

I agree about that. Women with natural hair color stood out. It was as if they were the ones dying their hair.

[IkemenTommy]

Ageha as in swallow tail butterfly but once the make-up comes off, the butterfly becomes nothing more than an ugly moth.

[Samurai_Jerk]

Excellent thread. I shall therefore cooperate with its spirit and go out tonight and do a hostess.

I think you're dealing with a different demographic.

[Iraira]

Excellent thread. I shall therefore cooperate with its spirit and go out tonight and do a hostess.

Still chasing after all of my exes?:p

[Greji]

Still chasing after all of my exes?:p

Yup! Just got back. Mission accomplished and I charted some un-navigated territority. She asked me to tell you to stay home and wait for her call.

[Taro Toporific]

Several bloggers have recently picked up on the koakuma boom...Patrick Macias has a good piece on the trend here....
A close study of these texts ought to bring everyone nicely up to speed.

Via patrickmacias.blogs.com. Click for the full-sized photo.

Macias found the original engrish somewhere on the Ageha fashion website, Black Queen.

http://www.rakuten.ne.jp/gold/black-queen/

[IparryU]

While style is a matter of personal preference

I have to admit that this hyper-girly hostess bar look does absolutely zenzen for me.

"a wild civility: Do more bewitch me, than when art
Is too precise in every part."

Years ago during the peak of the tea hair look I saw a stunning women in Takatsuki wearing her hair natural long straight and black - almost walked into a column.

Ya when I go hunting I never go after the died haired, face painted girls. they look "good", but that just means the basement entrance is the size of a barn door.

The long, dark haired, modest makeup girls are always cleaner and get drunk easier. you get to drink most of the booze before you head off to the hotel and you dont wake up with bumps or burning sensations the next day.

traditional looking is the best!

[IkemenTommy]

[Samurai_Jerk]

Ya when I go hunting I never go after the died haired, face painted girls. they look "good", but that just means the basement entrance is the size of a barn door.

The long, dark haired, modest makeup girls are always cleaner and get drunk easier. you get to drink most of the booze before you head off to the hotel and you dont wake up with bumps or burning sensations the next day.

traditional looking is the best!

As far as the type I'm attracted to, I totally agree with you. But if you think they're any cleaner, you're dead wrong. Besides the bleach blond gyaru types generally won't give a gaijin the time of day, so you're not missing out.

[Marked Trail]

...hairstyle called "Ripe Tomato" "kanjuku tomato" or 完熟トマト...

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...It was done by a stylist named "Hiro" at an Osaka salon called "Trick Store"... in Amemura.

--kotaku.com: You'll Never Forget Japan's Tomato Hairdo