Electric Drills

[Russell]

Back on topic, I bought myself a drill for narrow spaces. Currently planning to lay a floor in the attic, so looks convenient for that job.

There's 90° chuck adapters that do the same job...

That may work for a small project, but to lay a floor of more than 70 square meters, I prefer a tool that works smoothly.

I'm not sure I want to understand why you would need a narrow space drill for laying flooring...
Anyway, 2 man from amazon... It's quite ok... Don't forget earing protection, any angled powertools have perpendicular gearings that are usually abominably noisy...

I will put wooden beams on my house's steel H-beams (H rotated by 90 degrees). To attach the wooden beams, I need to drill holes in an upward direction through the prefabricated holes of the steel beams.

The space under the top of a steel beam is less than 20 cm, which disqualifies every standard drill.

This drill appears pretty quiet, but I did not use it yet under load, so I will keep an eye on my ears once it is action time.

I bought it from these guys for 17,577 Yen (fees for shipping and payment on delivery for free). Took me three days to receive, but they appear reliable to me (their conditions are also reasonable).

[Yokohammer]

I will put wooden beams on my house's steel H-beams (H rotated by 90 degrees).

I think them's is called I-beams (well, except that it'd be the "I" with the lines across the top and bottom).

...so I will keep an eye on my ears once it is action time.

You must be very flexible. I want to see this.

[Russell]

Yep, you got me. They are I-beams. Or should we say エ-beams?

[Wage Slave]

Very useful clamp, Coligny.
Is there a significant price difference between the Amazon purchase and the Kahma one?

My local Kahma didn't have them. Supa Viva Home or LIXIL or whatever they are called had them for about 1,500, less 5% VIP discount and of course no delivery to pay. So a bit cheaper than Amazon.

[Coligny]

Ok, I understand why I didn't understand you.

For anything structural/anchoring I go with these stuff:

image.jpg

Mark, predrill the wood with a smaller pilot hole, then bolt with a washer. That's how I reach 600kg load rating on my bunk bed and never had a bookshelf fail on me.

[Coligny]

...so I will keep an eye on my ears once it is action time.

You must be very flexible. I want to see this.

I think I'm going to have to pass on this...

[Yokohammer]

Yep, you got me. They are I-beams. Or should we say エ-beams?

Ooh ... clever.

[Russell]

Ok, I understand why I didn't understand you.

For anything structural/anchoring I go with these stuff:

image.jpg

Mark, predrill the wood with a smaller pilot hole, then bolt with a washer. That's how I reach 600kg load rating on my bunk bed and never had a bookshelf fail on me.

OK, this is an interesting idea, and it would save time (and money on bolts and nuts).

Originally I was thinking to drill all the way through and put M12 or even M14 bolts through them. I still may stick with that because it is probably stronger (which is not bad when talking about floor attachments). Also, I have only 39mm of wood above the steel beam (which is supported by wooden beams if they span free space), so these self-tapping bolts would be limited in length.

[Coligny]

this one has a 50mm length + hexa head... Are you limited on ceiling height ? / considered putting the wood between the I beams instead of on top ? (lots of cutting though, might suck a lot....)

[Wage Slave]

They are called coach screws I think. And yes, they are good.

For what you are doing, assuming I understand it properly, structural strength isn't an issue is it? The fixings are there just to keep the new wood beams in place, not to take any load. Hence, M12 or M14 nuts and bolts are perhaps a bit OTT? Would 30mm M8 coach screws with washers be adequate to keep them where they should be and would be significantly easier and quicker to fit?

[Russell]

this one has a 50mm length + hexa head... Are you limited on ceiling height ? / considered putting the wood between the I beams instead of on top ? (lots of cutting though, might suck a lot....)

I am indeed limited in ceiling height, so I put supporting wood beams (2 by 4's vertically) between the steel beams, with the tops aligned with the tops of the steel beams.

Above that I put 2 by 4's horizontally, that is on top of the steel beams and on top of the supporting wooden beams. The reason to raise everything 39mm above the steel beams is to make space for cables and aircon pipes that pass over the steel beams (yep, it would be so much easier if they would have been put under the steel beams). Also, I need to have some wood to attach my floor boards to (which will be 15mm コンパネ).

[Russell]

They are called coach screws I think. And yes, they are good.

For what you are doing, assuming I understand it properly, structural strength isn't an issue is it? The fixings are there just to keep the new wood beams in place, not to take any load. Hence, M12 or M14 nuts and bolts are perhaps a bit OTT? Would 30mm M8 coach screws with washers be adequate to keep them where they should be and would be significantly easier and quicker to fit?

I will keep this in mind. Still in the planning phase.

In your judgement of structural strength, did you take into account loads incurred under heavy earthquake conditions? I fear the floor might start to shift sidewards if those M8's are used.

Also wondering how are you going to screw in those M8's in small pre-drilled holes. That looks like pretty heavy work, so methinks I need another power tool to do that.

Any suggestions? I remember Hammer writing somewhere that he purchased some power tool to attach the wheels to his car...

[Yokohammer]

Any suggestions? I remember Hammer writing somewhere that he purchased some power tool to attach the wheels to his car...

Yeah, but if you're going to be drilling in a tight place, that means you're going to be screwing in a tight place too, dunnit (ribald responses encouraged). A regular air impact wrench like mine probably wouldn't be much help.

[Wage Slave]

They are called coach screws I think. And yes, they are good.

For what you are doing, assuming I understand it properly, structural strength isn't an issue is it? The fixings are there just to keep the new wood beams in place, not to take any load. Hence, M12 or M14 nuts and bolts are perhaps a bit OTT? Would 30mm M8 coach screws with washers be adequate to keep them where they should be and would be significantly easier and quicker to fit?

I will keep this in mind. Still in the planning phase.

In your judgement of structural strength, did you take into account loads incurred under heavy earthquake conditions? I fear the floor might start to shift sidewards if those M8's are used.

Also wondering how are you going to screw in those M8's in small pre-drilled holes. That looks like pretty heavy work, so methinks I need another power tool to do that.

Any suggestions? I remember Hammer writing somewhere that he purchased some power tool to attach the wheels to his car...

I'm really not sure about earthquake resistance. The guys that did the building work for me recently were very against doing anything up in the attic. They said that storing stuff up there was a bad idea because that increases the sway. In one way it may not be a bad thing for the floor to be a bit "giving" as it will then allow the structure to behave as it was designed to? I just don't know.

One thing I can say with confidence is that steel frame buildings sway like crazy in an earthquake. We had longish 4 to 5 about two months after buying this place. In my ignorance I ran outside and was treated to the sight of the house swaying like a hula dancer. No damage at all when it was all over though.

An impact driver? Though I tend to think you might be OK with your drill - Pity it doesn't have a clutch. Perhaps use the drill to do 90% of the work and then finish off with a socket and ratchet drive.

[Coligny]

this one has a 50mm length + hexa head... Are you limited on ceiling height ? / considered putting the wood between the I beams instead of on top ? (lots of cutting though, might suck a lot....)

I am indeed limited in ceiling height, so I put supporting wood beams (2 by 4's vertically) between the steel beams, with the tops aligned with the tops of the steel beams.

Above that I put 2 by 4's horizontally, that is on top of the steel beams and on top of the supporting wooden beams. The reason to raise everything 39mm above the steel beams is to make space for cables and aircon pipes that pass over the steel beams (yep, it would be so much easier if they would have been put under the steel beams). Also, I need to have some wood to attach my floor boards to (which will be 15mm コンパネ).

That project would make a great addition to my nude woodworking youtube channel. You don't mind if I come with some gear... and work naked while I record ? Can I borrow Tokyobitch from Chokonen ? do you still have his gimp outfit ?

[Russell]

this one has a 50mm length + hexa head... Are you limited on ceiling height ? / considered putting the wood between the I beams instead of on top ? (lots of cutting though, might suck a lot....)

I am indeed limited in ceiling height, so I put supporting wood beams (2 by 4's vertically) between the steel beams, with the tops aligned with the tops of the steel beams.

Above that I put 2 by 4's horizontally, that is on top of the steel beams and on top of the supporting wooden beams. The reason to raise everything 39mm above the steel beams is to make space for cables and aircon pipes that pass over the steel beams (yep, it would be so much easier if they would have been put under the steel beams). Also, I need to have some wood to attach my floor boards to (which will be 15mm コンパネ).

That project would make a great addition to my nude woodworking youtube channel. You don't mind if I come with some gear... and work naked while I record ? Can I borrow Tokyobitch from Chokonen ? do you still have his gimp outfit ?

Actually, you would fit right in with the crew I already invited.

Working in the nude is obligatory, since summer temperatures up there are quite high.

[Grumpy Gramps]

So, what's this and what's it for?

P1000527.JPG

Apart from the bench hooks, bench dogs can be extremely helpful, too

bench_dog.jpg

[Russell]

So, what's this and what's it for?

P1000527.JPG

Apart from the bench hooks, bench dogs can be extremely helpful, too

bench_dog.jpg

OK, I thought I had a lot of clamps, but this beats everything and everyone.

What's up with that?

[Wage Slave]

So, what's this and what's it for?

P1000527.JPG

Apart from the bench hooks, bench dogs can be extremely helpful, too

bench_dog.jpg

OK, I thought I had a lot of clamps, but this beats everything and everyone.

What's up with that?

I'm green. Like the racks for them all - another little bit of workshop genius Mr Gramps.

[Coligny]

Kitteh are forbidden in the workshop... which means they do everything they can to go there, shouting at the door when I'm inside, trying to squeeze by... and when 1 manage to slip through... it's a mix of victory and confusion... The total "ok, sooo... now what ?"

note about clamps, no matter how many you got (n) you will always need at least (n+1) to do the job at hand...

[Grumpy Gramps]

Amazon lists about 400 pages of clamps, so I still have a long ways to go...

And I have special treats for my beasts in the workshop that are exclusive to the place and, therefore, very sought after Though when blades are turning, the fur-noses are not welcome.